Surfs Up

A dream of mine has always been to learn how to surf. I never expect to be in the line up trying to surf any 10 foot waves but knowing how to “hang 10” has always seemed really cool. I have been here in the land down under for nearly 4 months which is kind of crazy because the time has been flying by. Rewind to two weekends ago and there I was face to face with one very loooong sponge board.

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I had a very short maybe 5 minute lesson on the sand that consisted of:

1. lay down on the board

2. paddle with your arms

3. pop up and stand

ya so that was it and then I was off.

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So I wasn’t a complete master right off the bat because it took me 4 times to actually stand up. Now this was quite the accomplishment for me because I seriously thought I would spend most of the day in the water instead of on top of the board…which by the end of the day I did end up spending about 80% in the water, but it was so much fun.

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his was the triumphant wave that was caught on camera…..the rest looked like this….

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Over all it was such an amazing experience that I cannot wait to have again! Maybe I will get some more confidence and try for a little bit bigger wave you know like 10 inches.

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See those monster waves???? Ya it was deadly out there!

Surfs up dudes-

Abby

PS thanks teach

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