A dream of mine has always been to learn how to surf. I never expect to be in the line up trying to surf any 10 foot waves but knowing how to “hang 10” has always seemed really cool. I have been here in the land down under for nearly 4 months which is kind of crazy because the time has been flying by. Rewind to two weekends ago and there I was face to face with one very loooong sponge board.
I had a very short maybe 5 minute lesson on the sand that consisted of:
1. lay down on the board
2. paddle with your arms
3. pop up and stand
ya so that was it and then I was off.
So I wasn’t a complete master right off the bat because it took me 4 times to actually stand up. Now this was quite the accomplishment for me because I seriously thought I would spend most of the day in the water instead of on top of the board…which by the end of the day I did end up spending about 80% in the water, but it was so much fun.
his was the triumphant wave that was caught on camera…..the rest looked like this….
Over all it was such an amazing experience that I cannot wait to have again! Maybe I will get some more confidence and try for a little bit bigger wave you know like 10 inches.
See those monster waves???? Ya it was deadly out there!
Surfs up dudes-
PS thanks teach